Do-It-Yourself Sugar Ant Treatments That Actually Work!

Sugar ants are those tiny black ants that are covering the leftover pieces of cereal right now that your kids left on the kitchen floor for you this morning. You know the kind. You see them trailing across your floors and counters and swarming every sweet thing in sight. Maybe you have tried everything to get rid of them and nothing seems to be working, maybe you have nuked your whole house with bug bombs and maybe, just maybe, everything you are doing is completely counterproductive. If you were to take a trip to a department store and look down the pesticide aisle, you would find all kinds of different options. You would see aerosol cans and pump sprayers with pictures of the ant that you are trying to get rid of on the front and logically come to the conclusion that this is a product that would work for you. Only, you would be wrong. This is because Odorous House Ants (we call them “sugar ants”) react negatively to repellent sprays and just about every spray on the market is a repellent (Raid, Black Flag, Ortho Home Defense, etc).

Okay, this seems like a really bad idea, right? You have been dealing with these things long enough to know exactly what will happen if you put out something sweet like syrup, but that is exactly my point! If you put out some syrup on a lid or other small container, making a feeding trough, they will all come and get it. Once you get an established line of traffic that the ants are using to come get their food, that is when you swap the syrup for the less palatable ant bait. They will take it back to the nest since they already went through the trouble of getting there and it will work much, much better than it would have otherwise. Trust me, this really works and gives you the best shot of getting rid of sugar ants on your own. If this doesn’t get the job done, you might need to call a Leicester Pest Control, but if you are cheap like me, you should at least give this a shot first.

How To Treat For Bed Bugs

You’ve got bed bugs. First of all, do not panic! Do NOT throw your belongings away and do NOT be tricked that you ‘have to hire a professional’. You can successfully treat for bed bugs yourself.

It helps to determine the source of the bed bugs and how long you have had them. This is important because you want to make sure you don’t treat and have a probable re-infestation.

Next assess the level of infestation. Get a high-powered flashlight and a magnifying glass and start your diligent search for these blood suckers in all nooks and crannies so you can realize their location. They like folds of fabric on mattresses and in bed linens; they like to hide up underneath furniture; and in extreme cases, they’ll penetrate into electrical outlets, light fixtures and even TV remotes.

Adult bed bugs are about half the size of an apple seed and the nymphs vary from about 1/5th that size up to equivalent. They are definitely visible, but good light and magnification helps. Other signs are black dots or small streaks (that is the excrement) and sometimes there are casings of empty egg shells and molted bodies.

To prepare a space for treatment, seal all windows and doors shut. Turn off pilot lights and alert your alarm company of what you will be doing. Laundry items should be washed in the hottest water possible and set on the highest dryer setting. Create easy access to everything so move furniture away from walls, take down artwork, remove all linens on beds, and be prepared to flip mattresses and empty all drawers as it is important that everything that could house bed bugs be treated.

You will need a respirator (not a dust mask – a respirator), sealed goggles, a natural & safe bed bug product and a low volume, non-thermal fogger. Even though your product is safe, the fog will be dense and concentrated so you will need goggles and a respirator.

Begin in the far corner of a room making sure you direct the fogger output into the nooks and crannies – where carpet meets walls, under and behind furniture, inside cabinets and closets, etc. Work your way out of the room making sure you fog all surfaces including all 6 sides of each mattress, behind head boards, etc. The fog should be so dense that when done, you cannot see your hand at the end of your arm.

Leave the room and seal the door. Allow the fog to penetrate a minimum of four hours to overnight. When you return, open windows and turn on the heater or fan to air it out. It is possible that small amounts of residue will be on surfaces so clean as usual. Move everything back into place.

Perform a thorough inspection and repeat if necessary. But the more thorough your initial treatment, the more successful your efforts will be. Just remember, you CAN treat for bed bugs yourself!

Louise Hodges is the owner of Greenbug which offers effective, safe and green pest control solutions as an alternative to synthetic chemical pesticides.

Greenbug products for People, Pets, Indoors & Outdoors kill and repel pests you don’t want such as Bed Bugs, Mosquitoes, Ants, Fleas, Ticks, Roaches, Mites, etc. but cause no harm whatsoever to beneficial creatures.

How to Get Rid of Moth (Drain, Sewer or Filter) Flies

Moth (Drain, Sewer or Filter) Fly: (brown to black body, 1/8th of an inch long, wings are roof-like, spread out, not folded back, covered with hair leaving a powdery smudge when squashed)

They are poor fliers and like to hover around drains and like to rest on walls and ceilings near their breeding site. They will normally lay their eggs within the first few hours of hatching. Their presence usually indicates poor drain maintenance or a broken sewer line. If any sewer line work is being done near your home then they may get stirred up and enter your home through your sewer line.

Breeding sites contain Wet/ Moist Decaying Organic matter.

The key to eliminating an infestation is locating and removing or treating breeding sites.

•Sink and shower/tub drains

•Under slabs where a drain pipe has possibly broken

•Sump pumps and sewers in basement areas

•Elevator pits

•Showers pans

•Poor caulking around tubs and showers

•Crawl spaces. Look for dead moths in spider webs

•Outside- bird baths, air conditioners, stagnate pools of water, clogged gutters

•Standing water under houseplants

•Sewers, septic tanks, and drains

•Manure, dung, and rotting vegetation

•Wet lint under washing machine

•Dirty mops and mop pails- Hang mops to properly dry

•Cracks and voids along any areas that may have moisture issues

•Trash cans, recycling containers and trash (dumpsters) disposal areas

•Clean out the bottom of trash cans

•Garbage disposals

•Floor drains

•Floor mats

•Beverage systems- look for any accumulated soda scum in soda lines and the rubber cup that holds the soda dispenser gun

•Repair any loose, missing or damaged floor tiles. Usually around the dishwashers, stoves, ovens, and refrigeration equipment

•Refrigeration and dishwasher drains

•Keep doors and windows closed or screened properly or caulked where needed

•Use a wet/dry vacuum to remove any standing water in corners, under equipment or low spots on the floor

•Use fans down low to dry up areas after cleanup

•Clean dust pans used to sweep up food/trash

•Indoor plants with moist decaying soil may provide a breeding site

Attractants: They are attracted more to light. Place a battery-powered, flying insect trap that lights up like GLOstik made by Catchmaster. This will help to catch the baby makers since they are more active at night.


Once you have an infestation, removal of breeding sites for 5-7 days is normal time to break the life cycle to eliminate the problem. There are several products that work very well in control and elimination of hard to reach breeding sites.